Risposta Stile Testo Dimensione:  10 12 14 16 18 20 24 30 Colore:  Rosso Viola Verde Blu Giallo Grigio Arancio Rosa Allinea:  Centrato Giustificato Linea vuota A capo Altri comandi Emoticons Clicca per riportare il codice nell'area di testo oppure posizionati su un'immagine per vederne il relativo comando. Testo In risposta a cpiace64 [quote=cpiace64] [auto-justify]c'e' qualcosa che non mi convince nello schema, ma questi alimentatori retroazionati non mi sono mai piaciuti il diodo zener dz2 magari e' da cambiare in un post di oggi su un forum inglese si parla di questo alimentatore e dicono che e' pericoloso perche' si puo' prendere uno scrollone, poi dice di sostituire i 6 condensatori, segue copia incolla: Amiga 500 PSU ref P.312503-03 singapore (Heavy PSU) **** WARNING !!! ******* This model of PSU is more dangerous than the light A500 PSU and the A600/1200 PSU. For a simple reason : the electronic board is not spanned FLAT inside the PSU, but on its SIDE ! Any wrong manipulation could lead you to touch dangerous parts, so this means that you need to put the internal PSU board on a wood table FLAT ! There are only 6 capacitors to remove (that's the best part) Tools needed : -------------- - 'Current Protected' screwdriver (i use FACOM ones which support up to 1000V, so the 47 uF 400V capacitor won't do me any harm, as well as the other parts which could be charged). * NEVER EVER TRY TO PROCEED IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PROTECTED TOOL/DEVICE TO DISCHARGE THE CAPACITORS ON THE MAINS, OTHERWISE IF YOU TOUCH A CHARGED PART, AND THAT THE CURRENT PULSE GET IN SYNC WITH YOUR HEART BEAT, YOU'RE DEAD AND I'M NOT KIDDING ! * Capacitors list : --------------- - 2x 2200UF 40V (replacement Panasonic EEUFC1H222 , 2200uF 50V) - 1x 330UF 50V (replacement Panasonic EEUFR1H331L) - 1x 330UF 25V (replacement Panasonic EEUFM1E331) - 1x 470UF 16V (replacement Panasonic EEUFC1C471L) - 1x to determine (small one) 1) Be sure that the PSU is not connected to the main /! /! and also that the PSU was not connected since 24H. 2) unscrew the 4 screws underneath it 3) press the power switch like if you wanted to switch on your amiga, this will help to discharge the big capacitor 4) Use the current protected screwdriver and pass it on the (+) and (-) poles of the big capacitors solder side. 5) prepare your solder station and use 400°C temperature for the iron 6) Pick your usual electronic-fluxed tin and use it if the solder points of the capacitors are reluctants to be desoldered 7) remove them one by one, and respect the polarity (!) to avoid any explosion, smoke, whatever 8) put back the plastic cover and the 4 screws 9) Time to test ! [/auto-justify] [/quote] formattazione A sinistra Giustificata Nessuna

08 Novembre 2014 Postato da: galvanica Alimentatore Amiga 500

Ciao a tutti Amici! Ho un problema con l'alimentatore dell'Amiga 500. Al post o dei 12v tira fuori 10v o 11v al massimo giocando con il trimmer interno. Vorrei vedere dove è il problema.. Ho già cambiato un condensatore che secondo me era un po' gonfio ma niente. Da il classico problem con il led della tastiera che lampeggia velocemente così come il caps lock. Qualcuno ha gli schemi per caso? Grazie mille, Stefano

Commenti: 25  Aggiungi - Pagine: 1-2

cpiace64 Post inviati: 4689	Commento cpiace64 19 Novembre 2014    21:00:22
	c'e' qualcosa che non mi convince nello schema, ma questi alimentatori retroazionati non mi sono mai piaciuti il diodo zener dz2 magari e' da cambiare in un post di oggi su un forum inglese si parla di questo alimentatore e dicono che e' pericoloso perche' si puo' prendere uno scrollone, poi dice di sostituire i 6 condensatori, segue copia incolla: Amiga 500 PSU ref P.312503-03 singapore (Heavy PSU) **** WARNING !!! ******* This model of PSU is more dangerous than the light A500 PSU and the A600/1200 PSU. For a simple reason : the electronic board is not spanned FLAT inside the PSU, but on its SIDE ! Any wrong manipulation could lead you to touch dangerous parts, so this means that you need to put the internal PSU board on a wood table FLAT ! There are only 6 capacitors to remove (that's the best part) Tools needed : -------------- - 'Current Protected' screwdriver (i use FACOM ones which support up to 1000V, so the 47 uF 400V capacitor won't do me any harm, as well as the other parts which could be charged). * NEVER EVER TRY TO PROCEED IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PROTECTED TOOL/DEVICE TO DISCHARGE THE CAPACITORS ON THE MAINS, OTHERWISE IF YOU TOUCH A CHARGED PART, AND THAT THE CURRENT PULSE GET IN SYNC WITH YOUR HEART BEAT, YOU'RE DEAD AND I'M NOT KIDDING ! * Capacitors list : --------------- - 2x 2200UF 40V (replacement Panasonic EEUFC1H222 , 2200uF 50V) - 1x 330UF 50V (replacement Panasonic EEUFR1H331L) - 1x 330UF 25V (replacement Panasonic EEUFM1E331) - 1x 470UF 16V (replacement Panasonic EEUFC1C471L) - 1x to determine (small one) 1) Be sure that the PSU is not connected to the main /! /! and also that the PSU was not connected since 24H. 2) unscrew the 4 screws underneath it 3) press the power switch like if you wanted to switch on your amiga, this will help to discharge the big capacitor 4) Use the current protected screwdriver and pass it on the (+) and (-) poles of the big capacitors solder side. 5) prepare your solder station and use 400°C temperature for the iron 6) Pick your usual electronic-fluxed tin and use it if the solder points of the capacitors are reluctants to be desoldered 7) remove them one by one, and respect the polarity (!) to avoid any explosion, smoke, whatever 8) put back the plastic cover and the 4 screws 9) Time to test !